Fran Tirado https://www.gaytimes.com/author/fran-tirado/ Amplifying queer voices. Mon, 04 Nov 2024 23:55:22 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=6.4.2 18 animals you didn’t know were biologically trans https://www.gaytimes.com/life/18-animals-you-didnt-know-were-biologically-trans/ Fri, 05 Apr 2024 01:01:29 +0000 https://www.gaytimes.co.uk/?p=356435 Whether you like it or not, gender diversity in the (tr)animal kingdom blurs the lines of “biological sex.”   words by FRAN TIRADO photography courtesy of WIKIMEDIA COMMONS This story is…

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Whether you like it or not, gender diversity in the (tr)animal kingdom blurs the lines of “biological sex.”  

words by FRAN TIRADO
photography courtesy of WIKIMEDIA COMMONS

This story is a companion to our April cover story with GEENA ROCERO.

Transphobes love to cite “biology” in their exclusionary views. Lesbian separatists, right wing lobbyists, the Pope, She Who Must Not Be Named — this shrinking class of gender imperialists use “biological sex” as a pseudo-intellectual trump card to suggest that the gender binary is inalienable due to this perceived fact. 

Yet, these relentless displays of willful obtuseness ignore many facts in order to prove their point. Such as, the fact of intersex bodies. Such as, the fact of overwhelming support from medical institutions and experts advocating for the prosperity of trans people. (Take the Endocrine Society — the largest and oldest medical organization dedicated to researching hormones — calling out the terms “biological sex,” “biological male,” and “biological female” as “imprecise and should be avoided.”) 

There’s also the fact of trans beings in some of the earliest recorded histories of the earth, preceding the politicization of the term “transgender.” Or, the fact that the human species is really only one member of that supposed “biology.”

Anyway, enough about humans, let’s learn more about these tranimals. Where of course some might take issue with the identity-based term “trans” applied loosely to this list of gender-variant fauna for colloquial effect, my only natural response to that is, well, some biological facts.

BY RICKARD ZERPE

1. CLOWNFISH

A few years ago, Geena Rocero gave a talk at Pixar Headquarters and someone asked her about the kind of representation she wanted to see. She replied, “I can’t wait for Nemo to come out as trans!” This joke came from the fact that all clownfish are born male, into a female-dominated hierarchical community. When the need arises, clownfish then sex-change into female in a process known as sequential hermaphroditism. Call her “TS Nemo!”

by Jerzy Strzelecki

2. SANDPIPER RUFF 

This unsung bird species is known for having not two, but four distinct genders — an evolution created by their elaborate courtship and mating structures. One of these genders is a “female mimic” that blends in with the other females thanks to a sequence of just 100 genes that creates this behavior — a phenomenon scientists spent 30 years studying.

by Sharp Photography, sharpphotography.co.uk

3. SWALLOWTAIL BUTTERFLY

A few different kinds of butterflies exhibit dual-gender behaviors, but the swallowtail does it with the most glamor. Some female swallowtails have a wing pattern defense mechanism that make it indistinguishable from the more toxic butterflies in its ecosystem. The “doublesex” gene is responsible for this masterful camouflage — the experience of transfeminine code-switching in a nutshell.

by opencage.info

4. SEAHORSE

By now most people know seahorses are famous for switching up parenting roles. Our April cover was inspired by the color patterns of the leafy seadragon which has the same gender-swapping trait. These underwater fathers incubate their babies in a uterus-like pouch complete with placenta. That’s why some pregant transmasculine folks call themselves “seahorse dads.”

by Timothy A. Gonsalves

5. SPOTTED HYENA

Fpotted hyenas are the only known female mammal to “copulate, urinate, and give birth through a penile-like canal. It’s even possible for females to achieve erections.” With a large, retractable clitoris and teste-like labia, these female appendages are actually bigger than the males — and I exercised a lot of restraint redacting a joke about that.

by JMsayers

6. SPOTTED SNOW SKINK

In newly discovered research, it was found that a number of these Tasmanian lizards change sex from female to male in a climate-based adaptation. Those in cooler climates and lower altitudes exhibited this quasi-transition because the females favor warmer climates — who can blame a doll?

by Sharp Photography sharpphotography.co.uk

7. BOYD’S FOREST DRAGON 

Speaking of lizards, this Australian forest dragon is a recent addition to the tranimal kingdom. Some females’ ovarian tissue disappeared, they stopped producing eggs, and then started to develop male characteristics, including full testes — making it the world’s first reptile to change sex after birth. 

by Sharp Photography, sharpphotography.co.uk

8. KOMODO DRAGON

Where sexual genetics ascribe females with “X”chromosomes and males with “XY,” the Komodo is the opposite. These Indonesian dragons are also capable of immaculate conception, a rare method of asexual reproduction called parthenogenesis — essentially virgin births” of perfectly healthy eggs without any present males. Biblical!

by W.carter

9. JELLYFISH

Out of reproductive need, the illustrious jellyfish is famous for its gender apathy. Some jellies can be male and female at the same time, where others exhibit sequential hermaphroditism, switching genders in order to procreate. Some are “asexual” and can generate a reproductive cycle just fine without mating. The jellyfish mentality is truly aspirational.

by Hans Hillewaert

10. STARFISH

Starfish have an apathy around gender as well as sexuality. When mating, they cannot see or detect their potential partner: they simply extend their “mating arm” indiscriminately. Obviously starfish are just one of 1500+ species where same-sex mating behaviors occur naturally, but some species of starfish get extra queer points with their ability to split in half and procreate two offspring fragments that are completely different genders. 

by Oregon State University

11. OYSTERS

The sea, as you may have gathered, is home to a lot of the world’s sexual diversity, and the oyster has always been that girl. A typical male oyster spends spawning season releasing an ungodly and essentially uncountable amount of sperm — ranging into the tens of billions. (One researcher suggested they were “the most fecund of species on the planet.”) After spawning, their sex radically changes to egg-making, though no one really knows why.

by NOAA Photo Library

12. BLACK SEA BASS

Black sea bass are protogynous hermaphrodites, changing sex in droves as a part of their evolutionary survival. Researchers observed one bass population where as much as 30% of the male bass changed sexes to even out the numbers. Though there is a theory of “supply and demand” in mating, the biological reason for this is still unknown.

by Will Brown

13. BANANA SLUG

Like all gastropods, these chic little slugs possess an intersex-like hermaphroditism, both male and female at the same time. Though rare, some slugs have also proven the ability to make themselves pregnant. Talk about containing multitudes!

by Afsarnayakkan

14. MARSH HARRIER

Like the ruff, marsh harriers are the only bird of prey with “female mimics.” Males of this species are known to violently attacking each other, so as much as 40% of the male population “cross dresses,” developing the brown feathers and white eyes of females in order to find their peace.

15. GREEN HONEYCREEPER

The green honeycreeper is another new addition to the tranimal kingdom. Along with chickens, parrots, and cardinals, the honeycreeper can possess a biological trait known as bilateral gynandromorphism. This means that if you cut the bird open, you’d find both testes and ovaries inside, split down the middle as “half male, half female.” 

by Alexis Lours

16. MANDARIN DUCK

Though it’s rare, Mandarin ducks are one of a few bird species where females transition to male if their sole ovary experiences a failure of some kind. This adaptation leads the bird to develop masculinized plumage and sex traits. In one exceptional case, an FTM bird successfully fathered two chicks with its male partner. 

by Gary Kramer, USDA Natural Resources Conservation Service.

17. NEW MEXICO WHIPTAIL LIZARDS

This one-of-a-kind reptile species is known for being the only lizard species on the planet with a 100% female population, making them feminist asexual icons. Through the process of parthenogenesis, the whiptail lizards essentially clone themselves to lay eggs — but that’s not even the queerest part. Despite having no biological incentive, the all-female population will still engage in sex and mating behaviors, bumping their cloacal purses with abandon.

by Peter Southwood

18. SLIPPER LIMPET

This specific tropical snail species has a very unique way of enacting sequential hermaphroditism, one that remains a biological mystery. In a 2015 study, it was found that these snails are able to change gender by simply touching each other. Can science speed things along so we can encapsulate this trans magic, please?

 

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Welcome to Geena Rocero’s Tranimal Kingdom https://www.gaytimes.com/fashion/geena-rocero-tranimal-cover/ Thu, 28 Mar 2024 13:37:28 +0000 https://www.gaytimes.co.uk/?p=355213 Geena Rocero comes out of modeling retirement for GAY TIMES, in this editorial reimagining a few of her favorite, gender-defiant fauna WORDS BY FRAN TIRADO PHOTOGRAPHY HUNTER ABRAMS MAKEUP LAUREL…

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Geena Rocero comes out of modeling retirement for GAY TIMES, in this editorial reimagining a few of her favorite, gender-defiant fauna

WORDS BY FRAN TIRADO
PHOTOGRAPHY HUNTER ABRAMS
MAKEUP LAUREL CHARLESTON
FASHION LJ PEREZ
HAIR WILLIAM SCOTT BLAIR
LIGHTING DIRECTION SAM LEE
MAKEUP ASSISTANT V SADIKU
HAIR ASSISTANT ZENOBIA TEAGUE
STYLE ASSISTANT MIA NAVARRO
JEWELS SWAROVSKI
HEELS GIANVITTO ROSSI

 

Because she grew up in the city, trailblazer Geena Rocero feels like she’s always trying to get back to her roots in a pre-colonial Philippines. Her desire to do so, she says, came to fruition in a tanning salon in San Francisco — you’ll have to read her book to hear the rest of that story. But before 400 years of colonization from Spain, America, and Japan in World War II, the Philippines were “an animist culture,” Geena says. “Everything revolved around the seasons, the animals, the flowers, the harvest.”

In her pageant days, she was anointed with the insult-turned-nickname- turned-memoir-title, “Horse Barbie,” for her tumbling hair and long legs. Now, she explores her ancestral animism in her current work as a storyteller, uncovering parts of her colonial “brainwashing” that denied what has always existed for her. “And that led me to how natural it is to have variations of sex and gender.”

Growing up, Geena was taught: “You were assigned this gender. This is so absolute. It’s biology. It’s nature,” she says. “Those people were making decisions back in the day under their limited understanding of what’s supposed to be ‘natural’ under Western ideals.” Much like the indigenous shamanic genderless babaylan, the natural world continues to teach us — if only we’d listen.

In this all-too-familiar cultural moment, the West continues to find ways to inhibit the natural order of the trans population. The pope vocates on the “anthropological crisis” of gender liberation, referring to the work of trans movementists and feminists alike as “dangerous” and “ugly.” Fear stokes bioessentialism in both liberal and conservative America with almost 500 different pieces of proposed legislation targeting trans people’s right to their own bodies (if not sports, identification, education, or existence).

Prominent British media brands seem to never tire of their inordinately virulent anti- trans argumentation, galvanizing lesbian separatists who have, before this moment, never had a cause to protest. Most of these gender imperialists point to “biology,” citing the difference between men and women as inalienable and fundamental to the natural fabric of the world. And yet, in naming biology, they forget 1. that trans beings precede the term “transgender” in some of the earliest recorded histories of the earth, and 2. that the human species is just one member of that supposed “biology.”

“You’re saying ‘biology?’ Now I’m presenting biology. Call me Geena Attenborough.” Rocero comes out of modeling retirement to grace our pages with this co-concepted editorial for GAY TIMES, reimagining a few of her favorite, gender-defiant fauna.

AMPHIPRION OCELLARIS

All clownfish are born males. At some point in their lives, this fish must decide on whether it wishes to stay that way or become a female. This process is called sequential hermaphroditism.

dress, shoes LORENA PIPENCO earrings MARIA TASH gloves STYLIST’S OWN

CALIDRIS PUGNAX

Perhaps the most genderfluid bird in the animal kingdom, the wading sandpiper Ruff has four distinct gender categories. A third type of male, thought of as a “cross-dresser,” blends into the females during breeding season.

top by RUI earrings by MARIA TASH

PAPILIONIDAE

The female swallowtail butterfly contains a single doublesex gene that allows it to mimic the look of more toxic butterflies in order to protect itself, an ability facilitated by ancestral polymorphism.

jewels SWAROVSKI shoes GIANVITO ROSSI

PHYCODURUS EQUES

By now, most people know that it’s the male seahorse that gives birth, and that’s the same case for the leafy seadragon. The fathers incubate their embryos in a uterus-like pouch, complete with placenta to support their baby’s growth.

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These are the queerest things to do in Las Vegas https://www.gaytimes.com/travel/these-are-the-queerest-things-to-do-in-las-vegas/ Tue, 27 Feb 2024 11:58:19 +0000 https://www.gaytimes.co.uk/?p=352259 From the Burlesque Hall of Fame to breathtaking nature, these are just some of the places where LGBTQIA+ tourists can thrive. WORDS BY FRAN TIRADO PHOTOGRAPHY BY NEAL SANTOS Despite…

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From the Burlesque Hall of Fame to breathtaking nature, these are just some of the places where LGBTQIA+ tourists can thrive.

WORDS BY FRAN TIRADO
PHOTOGRAPHY BY NEAL SANTOS

Despite the anti-LGBTQIA+ legislation currently tracking across the United States, every single city is home to queer people who thrive, and Las Vegas, Nevada is one of them. With a bustling LGBTQIA+ epicenter and a rich queer underground, it’s a diamond in the desert.

That’s why Vegas was a natural stop on our road trip, where we’re showing you first hand how you can experience queer culture, and all the hidden gems of LGBTQIA+ American travel.

We landed in Las Vegas the way you’re supposed to: after dark, delirious, and in serious need of a nightcap.

Our hotel was a short walk from the “Fruit Loop” as it’s been called since the 70s. This cluster of gay nightclubs down East Naples Drive holds court for LGBTQIA+ visitors and locals alike between Paradise and University Center Drive (formerly known as Swenson). We decided to quickly pop into Gipsy, a cash-only joint with an infamous history spanning more than 40 years.

Gipsy is an establishment which has undergone many challenges but persisted nonetheless – making it an important symbol of queer resistance and resilience. The business has been through so many things: lawsuits, a range of business models, police raids, reality TV controversy, and the plights of the AIDS epidemic.

It emerged as a gay bacchanal in the 1970s under the name “Disco Fever,” converted from an Italian restaurant co-owned by Don Rickles. It shut down and reopened many times as a bistro, a cafe, and a gay club called “Gipsy” in the 80s that attracted patrons like Siegfried and Roy, Cher, Janet Jackson, Liberace, RuPaul, and other legends.

With a dramatic return in 2023, Gipsy came back after a full-scale demolition. Continuing to host drag queens, gogo dancers and queer royalty, Gipsy’s storied history and vibrant present proved the perfect kick-start to our trip.

The next day, we start with a coffee at the Bent Inn, a somewhat new renovation that claims to be the first adults-only, gay and locally owned and operated boutique spot in Vegas. With 33 rooms, a pool, and a satiating pub menu, owners Mark Hunter and Greg Kafka developed the property in what used to be Vegas’ more central area before The Strip became the thing. Downtown Vegas is now home to a range of boho-leaning galleries, vintage stores, restaurants, and other establishments that bring additional layers of taste to the glitzy atmosphere that Vegas is known for.

Before they opened up the Bent Inn, Mark and Greg worked in Palm Springs, and the hotel certainly brings a gay desert vibe to the decor with its original interpretations of old pulp fiction book covers. Mark talks to us about how Las Vegas invites some of the highest margins of LGBT tourism, which is why the mission with the Bent Inn is to create a community that is welcoming, non-judgmental, and embracing of all.

Down the street, we make our way to The Burlesque Hall of Fame, which quickly becomes my favorite stop on the whole trip. The institution is the brainchild of tassel-twirler Jennie Lee, who came up with the idea in the 1950s. After Jennie’s passing, the Burlesque Hall opened in the 1990s as an archive of her personal collection of burlesque ephemera in the middle of the California desert. To this day, it is one of the world’s only institutions dedicated to preserving the art and history of burlesque, exotic dancing, and strip-adjacent performance art.

Every single employee at the BHOF is infectiously passionate, each with their own favorite performers and pockets of history. “Burlesque history, is queer history, is trans history, is sex worker history,” and so on, says one team member named Jeffrey Xerxes Brice who also gives us recommendations on the best bars in Vegas. Folded into the anthropology of this museum is a world of LGBTQ+ underground talent, many of their identities undocumented or hidden for their safety at the time. From Mae West, to Josephine Baker, Burlesque’s history has no shortage of icons and gender-swapping illusionists.

Between the tours, the striptease classes, and the expansiveness of the curation, we could’ve stayed at the BHOF another hour or two, but we’re late for brunch (offered on Saturdays and Sundays) at The Garden around the corner. We catch the tail end of a Selena megamix by a queen named Isha Cypress. The crowd is wild, with a robust representation of bachelorette parties and “woo-hoo” girls that fill the space with high energy and lots of cash.

Among legends like Tamisha Iman and Jade Jolie, our favorite performer is a Sin City siren by the name of Salem who gives us kicks, dips and splits without missing a single beat or lyric. We have a long day ahead of us, so we sadly pass on the bottomless mimosas, but in an alternate universe we’d gladly indulge. Maybe next time!

When you think of Las Vegas, it’s unlikely that you think of nature, but just outside the city is a range of mountains, canyons, hot springs, wildlife habitats, and state parks. My travel companion Neal is a hiking enthusiast, and I have the Carhartts to accommodate, so we make our way to the Wetlands and do a 1-mile jaunt to the Las Vegas Wash at the heart of the park.

Watching the sunset on the desert landscape, our nature-chasing turned out to be a much-needed break between our brunch shenanigans and the night that lies ahead of us. Vegas is very go-go-go, filled with neon lights, cold drinks, and hazy fun-seeking. But when you’re looking for a break, pick one of Nevada’s many natural oases for a breather.

On our bucketlist was to go and see the home of Drag Race: Live! at the Flamingo. We popped by the gift shop, aka “Ru’s Werk Room,” and got lost in the theme park feel of this quintessential Vegas casino. Though we try to find a Texas Hold ‘Em table, the night is too packed and we venture instead back to the Fruit Loop.

Before we get too rowdy, we pit stop at Get Booked, an LGBTQ store with a 30-year history that, to our surprise, didn’t have very many books. But if you’re in need of some cute underwear or a sexy fit, Get Booked is your spot.

Next door is Quadz, a sports bar with a chattier ambience that provides a welcome change of pace from the general untz-untz vibe of Vegas. Quadz feels less touristy, with an unpretentious interior and home bar feel.

Of the five different nightclubs and bars on the Fruit Loop, the one we’re most excited for is Piranha, and it does not disappoint. Every club on the strip has high security and strict no-photographer policies, and though Neal is sad we don’t get to photograph inside, it’s reassuring that these establishments are dedicated to the privacy and protection of their communities. Drag Race’s own Eureka O’Hara is on the mic as we ping pong through the club’s many different rooms and vibes. One room is Latin, another is R&B, another is pop, and a glorious range of gogo boys and girls rounded out the experience as a whole.

As we closed our night on the city’s gay strip, Vegas’ many different LGBTQ+ bars were reflective of the city itself — something for everyone. This travel destination is much like a theme park, which you can build and finetune to your liking whether you like fast rides or chill vibes. The LGBTQ+ locals and business owners in Las Vegas understand its unique cultural imprint on the country: nonstop fun, rich LGBTQ+ nightlife scenes, and a menu of things to choose from, no matter your background. If you’re looking for a sure-fire good time, or perhaps a distraction from your daily life, start your next travel plan to Sin City.

Plan your next USA holiday today

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Our queer hearts belong to Phoenix, Arizona https://www.gaytimes.com/travel/our-queer-hearts-belong-to-phoenix-arizona/ Thu, 22 Feb 2024 14:50:02 +0000 https://www.gaytimes.co.uk/?p=351510 From one of the USA’s last surviving lesbian bars to local queer-owned businesses, these are just some of the places where LGBTQIA+ tourists can thrive Words by Fran Tirado Photography…

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From one of the USA’s last surviving lesbian bars to local queer-owned businesses, these are just some of the places where LGBTQIA+ tourists can thrive

Words by Fran Tirado
Photography by Neal Santos

When you think of LGBTQ+ destinations, it’s unlikely that Phoenix, Arizona, comes immediately to mind. Though the US is filled with bustling metropolises and queer cultural capitals, it’s the destinations tucked away in the US’s corners, hiding in the desert or on the fringe, that contain the richest communities and undiscovered histories. Despite the anti-LGBTQIA+ legislation currently tracking across the United States, every single city is home to queer people who thrive, and Phoenix, Arizona, is one of them. That’s why we’re taking a queer-led road trip, to show you first hand how you can experience LGBTQ+ culture, and all the hidden gems of LGBTQ+ American travel.
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We landed late in Phoenix thinking first and foremost about tacos.

Neal and I have been friends for seven years, and through the many eras, exes, trips, and life changes we’ve gone through, food is at least one thing that’s always guided our way. We’d heard about a place called Barrio, “comida chingona since 2002.” Chef Esparza, a longtime champion for LGBTQ+ and immigrant rights, pulls the many comfort foods of Mexico into a gorgeous Mexican American menu. As is the case with any great restaurant, there are no reservations, so plan ahead!

Neal always orders for us: street-style esquites, calabacitas just like my mom’s, and a decadent cochinita. But the star of the evening was the posole verde, which was so big we couldn’t finish it between the two of us despite how starved we were from the flight.

At our hotel breakfast the next morning, I mapped out our days while Neal explored some hiking options — nature was a must in Arizona. They are known for their 34 state parks with luxurious desert terrains and beautiful views from any spot you visit. We were also reading about how the trans flag was actually invented in Phoenix by a woman named Monica Helms who debuted it at Phoenix Pride in 2000. Herstory! We found a local shop called All The King’s Flags that’s been supplying banners of all kinds for 37 years and they had what we were looking for, so we nabbed it in Monica’s honor as a souvenir.

By lunchtime, we made our way to Coqui, named after the Puerto Rican tree frog as an homage to the cuisine. The counter-service spot started out as a food truck before growing into this Phoenix staple thanks to co-owners and partners Alexis Carbajal and his partner Juan Ayala — a love story that added to the mofongo offering of this Southwestern capital, greeting every guest with an “Hola!”

Over tostones that reminded me of my grandma, and a sampling of empanadillas, we chatted with Alexis and some patrons at the table over to us. Phoenix has a high concentration of LGBTQ-owned businesses, especially in Melrose, so they recommended a few. With a list of gay bars at our disposal, we made our way over to check out a few.

The afternoon crash was already hitting us; time for cold brew. The spot to go, according to Alexis, was Window. The store owner Marcus Sanchez had just expanded his business with co-owner Homero Medrano to a second location with a dreamy courtyard we could chill in to catch our breath.

Strolling around the neighborhood, one of our favorite stops was Boycott, one of the last 31 surviving lesbian bars in the US. Although Neal and I are not lesbians technically, we are lesbians spiritually, so Boycott made us feel right at home with its dedication to a clientele Neal and I call family.

 

A local barback told us that if there’s anything we should do in Phoenix, catch the sunset. Windy days pull the particles of Arizona’s signature sedimentary red rocks into the sky to scatter light, creating a beautiful sorbet colorscape. We ran over to a spot near our hotel with a good view — but Phoenix is flat enough you can catch the sunset anywhere. After a rare moment of resonance, it was party time.

We managed to catch the beginning of a gig at Kobalt called “Cirque du so Trey,” by a local non-binary queen of the same name. The venue was surprisingly packed in the early evening, every table occupied with a dedicated patronage seated for the cabaret-style sets — most notably a queen named Black Dahlia who gave us shows, honey.

Phoenix is home to many gay and queer-friendly bars. Along with Boycott, Stacy’s and Cruisin’ on 7th were other local faves that hosted a much more mixed crowd than your average gay watering hole. But our favorite was Charlie’s, the most popular in the city, a bar that truly felt like it was for everyone. A queen by the name of Amy greeted us at the door, and the vibes were immaculate, with a crowd that felt like they were all there to just dance with friends despite the welcome distraction of gorgeous bartenders in tight jeans and cowboy hats. Charlie’s brags a sprawling size, with unvarnished wood interiors and an aesthetic that felt something like a line-dancing barn.

Founded in ‘84, Charlie’s has a deep connection to the International Gay Rodeo scene, and it showed. If you’re lucky enough to be in town when the Rodeo comes, you must try to see it at all costs. As someone who descends from vaqueros in the Southwest, I’m still trying to make my pilgrimage. But for now, Charlie’s was more than satisfactory. We grabbed tacos there before dragging our feet home at 1 in the morning. Why on earth had we scheduled a 2,704 foot hike, first thing?

Thankfully, we were not hungover the next morning. But travel and long days caught up to our thirty-something bodies, so instead of waking before dusk to catch our planned sunrise hike at Camelback Mountain, we opted for a less intense, more family-friendly jaunt through Papago Park.

Though it’s hard to look anywhere in Phoenix and see a bad view, Papago brags a phenomenal outlook for Arizona’s famous red rocks and clear sky views. If we had more time, we would’ve explored as many nature spots that Phoenix had to offer. Neal is more the hiking enthusiast, while I’m perhaps a hiking acquiescer. Papago was a perfect compromise, but now, of course, we were hungry.

Having over-indulged on Phoenix’s offering of Latin food (meat and cheese) our bodies were craving more vegetables. We found a queer-friendly, plant-based, from-scratch kitchen called The Coronado and our waitress tipped us off to her undisputed fave on the menu: cauliflower tacos.

Along with chili, cornbread, and a refreshing horchata, we replenished and thought hard about what to do with our last hours in Arizona. With a little research, and some light stalking, Neal came up with the best, and perhaps most chaotic, idea ever: friendship tattoos.

No matter where you travel, you can find a queer tattoo artist anywhere, and we lucked out with Sad Boy Studio, an AZ born-and-raised artist whose ethos and sense of humor was so immediately present, Neal and I wished we coulda hit the bars with him that night.

During tattoo appointments, we talked a lot about Phoenix queer culture, and the ways we tend to find each other. If you’ve never got a tattoo before, or got one on a whim during a wild girls night, your impression of tattoo shops might be jaded. Tattoo shops in general don’t always feel like welcoming places for LGBTQ+ patrons, or at the very least can feel intimidating to those who aren’t covered in tatts like Neal and myself. Sad Boy Studio, like most LGBTQ+ owned shops, was the opposite of that. Sad Boy’s own purple-haired daughter worked in the chair next to him and everyone in the studio was cracking jokes like it was their living room. We didn’t want to leave Phoenix.

With two fresh tatts on our arms, we covered ourselves in Aquaphor and plastic wrap before jetting over to the airport for our next adventure. Phoenix provides so many places where queer locals can thrive and, even if just on a flyby trip, this vibrant community made us feel like one of their own.

Plan your next USA holiday today.

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